Entries Tagged 'alkaline water' ↓

Aquarium Fish Care – Barb Care Tips For Beginners

Sumatra barbs, red barbs, rosy barbs and tiger barbs are all different varieties of freshwater fishes. They are easy to maintain and breed. But the larger barbs can only be kept with big fishes. The large barbs can cause trouble in communal tanks and destroy your structured plans. They require more attention than the smaller ones and therefore the barbs have to be separated and grouped.

The purple head barb and the black ruby are from Ceylon. These fishes grow to the size of around two and half inches and live in communal tanks well. The female ones create a colourful and vibrant environment by flaunting their grey-yellow bodies that also show stripes or dark blotches. The male lot are mostly either black or brown and/or have their fronts that are vermilion red. They are not like the boisterous group of Puntius Conchonius groups and live comfortably in communal waters. They are not finicky when it comes to food and they hence eat anything. They also have no demands when it comes to the water conditions, they are best suited for natural water which is hard water. These types of fish are also easy to breed. They lay around three hundred eggs and like other barbs also spawn.

The Sumatra and tiger fish belong to the species of Capoeta Tetrazona. These come from Sumatra and Borneo and grow up to two inches. They are colourful and set off the tanks with their colours and stripes. The fish keeps changing its behaviour and because of this nature it happens to be among the most diverse in the market. This is proved as some people say the fish is mild and calming while others refer to it as the bully who terrorises the other fishes!

The Sumatra and tiger fishes need the similar water conditions as compared to other barbs. They tend to live in the practical as well as impractical alkaline water. The fish does well in salt water too. The temperature that is recommended is 78 degrees Fahrenheit. These fishes have good appetites and they are not fussy and eat everything. Breeders will benefit as barb fishes are all healthy spawns.

Female Sumatra and tiger fishes are fat and differ from the male ones who are slim and colourful fishes. The female ones are quite ordinary and plain and they breed. They however do have some bladder problems and the fins have a tendency to go rot. The water hence should be clean and spotless. The tank also should be watched over during breeding as the spawns laid by the fishes are likely to be bitten by the mutants.

Capoeta Titteya or Cherry barbs are fishes that come from Ceylon too and they grow to the size of two inches. They are normally brownish-yellow in colour or brownish red. These fishes differ from the others to look at as they consist of top to bottom dark black lines. They are good communal fishes and require the same water and feeding conditions like the other barbs. The male in these are of darker colours and during breeding they undergo change in colours which appears to be black or even cherry red but the stripes evaporate eventually.

These barbs breed like the others too and even lay up to a number of 200 eggs. The cherry barbs consist of a wide variety and the fascinating thing is that while some types feed on other barbs itself; the other types don’t do this.

Concluding if you are a beginner then to get better acquainted with tips on aquarium and fish care you can check the new Harlequins line out.

Abhishek Agarwal
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/aquarium-fish-care-barb-care-tips-for-beginners-740504.html


Has anybody experienced weight loss by drinking alkaline water?


alkaline water won’t help you lose weight alone. My mom started alkalizing her water, just b/c its better and healthier but she also only eats organic foods, sometimes she’ll indulge in something not organic, but that’s rarely. she also drinks 2 green drinks in the morning. Super greens and Vega. She has lost a significant amount of weight.


Soap Making – the Disappearing Skill

There are only two ingredients required to make soap, yet soap making can be a very time consuming and difficult project. In the old days, soap was made a couple of times per year, sometimes once a year. One of the reasons for not making soap more often was because it was a long-drawn out process.

The two items necessary to soap making are fat and lye. Any type of fat will work but it must be cleaned by a process known as rendering. The fat is placed in a large pot and allowed to melt. Any meat, gristle or hair will sink to the bottom as the temperature rises. The liquid fat is carefully ladled off and stored. If the fat you were using was from a pig those deep fried pieces of skin would be called crackling’s and were considered by many to be a delicacy.

The second item needed in soap making is lye. In the early 1900’s lye, in a dry form, could be found in almost every general store in America. Today it is not so easy to find. However, lye made from wood ash is called potash and can be made easily at home.

You will need two containers; one large one and a smaller one…the larger the better for the bigger one. A 55-gallon plastic barrel or drum is best for the larger container and a drywall bucket is large enough for the smaller one.

The larger container needs to be placed on a stable platform higher than the smaller one is tall. Gravity will do the most of the work. Into the large bucket you will place a layer of packed straw. You will then add ash from a wood fire. The ash from fruit trees and hardwoods will produce the strongest potash. Some of the old time soap makers would use only one type of ash. They learned that certain species of wood produced the strongest potash. The stronger the potash the better the soap will be.

About a gallon of water is then added to the large container. A small hole is put in the bottom of the bucket and the smaller bucket placed underneath.  Some people allow the water to sit in the larger bucket before it’s drained off. A cork or stopper may be placed in the hole. Add a small amount of water daily until you have a working potash barrel. About a half a gallon will do. As the water drips down through the ash and straw it leaches out the alkaline chemicals in the ash. That is what potash is: a basic acid.

Acid when combined with fat produces soap. It’s a basic chemical reaction. The problem with making soap is the unpredictable strength of the potash. Potash suitable for soap making should be able to float a raw egg so that only a portion of the shell about the size of quarter should show above the liquid. If the potash does not float the egg it is poured back into the large container and allowed to drip through again. It takes up to a week or more to get a gallon of potash. Ashes are continually added to the larger container. Eventually the large container will need to be emptied and new straw and ashes added.

Once you have potash strong enough to float an egg you are ready to begin the time consuming job of boiling the potash and fat together until it reacts sufficiently to make soap. Determining how much fat to add to potash is the difficult part. Too much potash and you will be stirring the mixture over a hot fire or stove for many hours, too little and you will end up with useless fat. It is better to have too much potash than too little. The most commonly used ratio is 1:1. Equal amounts of both fat and strong potash.

The soap that you are used to seeing is not what this process will produce. Until salt became an inexpensive item all homemade soap was the consistency of jelly. Homemade soap of bygone eras was like today’s shower gel. To make soap hard salt must be added at the end of the process. The addition of salt allows the soap to set.

If you add salt to your soap mixture you will need to place it in a pan, box or mold to harden. If you do not add salt you can use any container to hold your soap. Just remember that it’s easier to dip the liquid soap than to pour so choose a container with a large top opening.

Ground herbs, nut hulls, scented oils and colorings can be added once the process is complete but before you pour the soap into your containers. Hardened soaps are usually allowed to cure for a couple of weeks. Once cured the new soaps are cut and ready for use.

C.L. Hendricks
http://www.articlesbase.com/crafts-articles/soap-making-the-disappearing-skill-708238.html


TriMedica AlkaMax Alkaline Booster 200 gm Powder

TriMedica AlkaMax Alkaline Booster 200 gm Powder

AlkaMax Alkaline Booster is a patent pending, one-of-a-kind all natural antacid and alkaline booster that can put an end to heartburn, indigestion, and excess acid in the body. Unlike chemically-saturated over the counter products that only mask the underlying problems of excess acid, AlkaMax Alkaline Booster penetrates the source of acid build up and promotes long lasting alkaline balance throughout the entire body. Warning: This product contains potassium which may interfere with certain types of heart medications and diuretics. Those individuals using such medications should use this product only under the supervision of a medical professional. Suggested Use: Suggested Use: Mix one teaspoon in water one to two times daily or as directed by your health practitioner. Ingredients: Supplement Facts Serving Size 1 Teaspoon Servings Per Container Appox. 40 Amount Per Capsule %DV Proprietary blend 4150 mg ** Glycine Citric Acid Potassium Bicarbonate Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) (root) —————————————————— Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. ** Daily value not established. Suggested Use: Mix one teaspoon in water one to two times daily or as directed by your health practitioner. Warning: This product contains potassium which may interfere with certain types of heart medications and diuretics. Those individuals using such medications should use this product only under the supervision of a medical professional. Best Used: Approx. 3 years from the date of purchase.

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Organic Soil Fertility Management for Enhanced Paddy Production

ORGANIC SOIL FERTILITY MANAGEMENT FOR ENHANCED PADDY PRODUCTION AND REVENUE GENERATION WITH LESS COST AS ACHIEVED IN SOME MODEL PADDY FIELDS IN ORISSA

A.K. Panigrahix1, T.R. Sahoox2, H.S. Beherax3 and N.K. Swainx4

ABSTRACT:

Green revolution was introduced in the country in the early sixties to meet the demand of food and add cereal cultivation in the Rabi. The aftermath of this revolution is alarmingly disastrous. The humus devoid soil has lost its water holding ability, pests have acquired tremendous resistance against pesticides. Indian paddy fields are adding roughly about 37.8 metric tonnes of methane, a green house gas, into the atmosphere. Food and underground water contaminated with pesticides.

The environmental deteriorations, food and water contaminations demand a paradigm shift from chemical to organic agriculture. With the growing demand of food, diminishing arable land holdings and exodus of the agrarian communities from villages to towns abandoning agriculture, only organic farming will not suffice. The new technique conceived is known as sustainable agriculture, where soil fertility, crop yield and pest management are taken care of together with the environmental protection. This method of agriculture is in harmony with the nature. The article examines three ex situ experiments where the above mentioned issues are examined along with the cost benefit ratio and throws light in making agriculture sustainable.

INTRODUCTION

More than six decades ago,Sir Albert Howard explained the nature of soil fertility in his famous book, “An agricultural Testament” as under. The nature of soil fertility can be understood only when it is considered in relation to Nature’s round. To study soil fertility we have to know the natural working system and to adopt methods of investigation in strict relation to such a subject. We must look at soil fertility as we would study a business where the profit and loss account must be taken along with the balance sheet, the standing of the concern, and the method of management. We have to consider the wood, not the individual tree. So it is with soil fertility. According to him, a fertile soil is one which has humus in abundance. If the soil is deficient in humus, the volume of pore space is reduced, the aeration of the soil is impeded, there is insufficient organic matter for the soil population, the soil machinary runs down, the supply of oxygen, water and dissolved salts needed by the root hairs is reduced, the synthesis of carbohydrates and proteins in the green leaf proceeds at a lower tempo; growth is affected.

CHEMICAL AGRICULTURE, Impact Analysis;

Then came the war and the war ended sooner than expected, resulting in stock piling of war surplus exploxive related materials, mostly compounds of nitrogen and phosphorus. Global approach to agriculture modified in the event of population growth and developments in material and biological sciences. New seeds were developed and introduced to enhance food production which soon became popular in populous countries like India, China, South East Asian Countries and Japan. War surplus chemicals were converted into compounds called artificial chemical fertilizers. The seeds, popularly called “Green revolution seeds” or “Miracle seeds”, were developed to consume these synthetic artificial chemical fertilizers with water and

produce more food. Thus, monoculture came into being at the expense of agro biodiversity and resources like water diminished.

Four decades into the green revolution in India, the situation is pathetic; soil in general has become humus deficient, excessively hard and bears no pores for holding air and moisture. This soil no longer harbours the beneficial microbes but the pathogens and pest eggs, requiring excessive use of synthetic pesticides. The impacts of these agro chemicals, the artificial chemical fertilizers and synthetic pesticides are well observable. No data have been published by any the Indian agencies like the US Environment Protection Agency (USEPA). The USEPA revealed in 1991 that the projected estimate of methane emission from the Indian paddy fields amounted to 37.8 metric tonnes per year, thus accusing the Indian paddy cultivators in adding to the global green house gas accumulation as methane is also considered as a green house gas. Consequently in Indian more emphasis is now attached to shift to non conventional agriculture and keep paddy cultivation limited to 47 percent of the total arable land. Use of artificial chemical fertilizers especially N- fertilizers always invite the agricultural pests and applications of pesticides, especially synthetic pesticides. The disastrous consequences of the use of these synthetic pesticides over several decades are now clearly observable. There is a rise of pesticides resistance in the pest species and diseases causing microbes at the expense of the beneficial organisms like the beneficial insects (honey bee) and scavenging birds (vultures). Reports of crop failure are also linked to the changes in natural status of the soil. Reports of methane emission are obviously owing to excessive use of nitrogenous fertilizers like Urea. Reports of occurance of agricultural pesticides in underground water (bottled water and soft drinks) are certainly due to their excessive applications and non degradations. There are reports of people in villages dying after consuming water from shallow tube wells in Orissa (Chakulia, Balasore, 2005).

HYPOTHESIS

It was thus felt essential to find a solution to both, enhance crop yield through enhanced soil fertility organically without further degrading its status and keep the pathogens and pests at bay through the use of natural pest repellants, botanical pesticides and employing biological pest control methods. But the most important one is, following Sir Howard, to bring out a balance sheet of profit- loss, making cultivation a profitable enterprise so that uncalled for future situations like resource retirement, contract farming and above all exodus of the agrarian communities from villages to cities are successfully thwarted. In India, agriculture is a million year old enterprise and has changed Sir Howard from being an western expert to an oriental expert. The population is growing alarmingly but arable land is diminishing. The farmers are committing suicides owing crop failures. There ought to be a shift in approach to the whole practice of agriculture at the moment. The modern agriculture should be made sustainable, i.e., in harmony with the nature. With the foregone objectives set in mind the authors experimented with the principal crop of Orissa, i.e. paddy cultivation, both in Kharif and Rabi.Methodology of approach, application, observation and cost benefit ratio of three such ex situ experiments, one of Rabi and the two others of Kharif are furnished below.

Material Method and Observations:

Experiment-1 : Rabi 2003 -04

Farmer’s name and address – Sri Surendra Nath Patra, Vill- Dharampur, Fulwar Kasba, Balasore, Orissa.

Soil type – Deltaic alluvial

Crop type- Paddy (HYV)- Lalat (ORS-26-2014-4) known qualities – Duration: 125-130 days.

Grain type: Medium * Slender, Grain yield/hectare: 40 quintals (as on record)

Experimental Unit Area: 1 Acre

Source of seed : Farmers own saved (OS)

SL No.. Activities associated Control Rs Chemical Rs. Organic Rs

1. Seed cost OS 0.00 OS 0.00 OS 0.00

2. Seed bed preparation 2HL 100.00 2HL 100.00 2HL 100.00

1BL 80.00 1BL 80.00 1BL 80.00

3. Ist cultivation Tractor 600.00 Tractor 600.00 Tractor 600.00

(2 hours) (2 hours) (2 hours)

4. Farm yard manure Not applied Not applied 2 tonnes 0.00

(II)

5. Puddling 6 HL 300.00 6HL 300.00 6HL 300.00

2BL 160.00 2BL 160.00 2BL 160.00

6. Basal application Nil Gromor Pongam 70 kg 700.00 Oil cake MOP 1qt. 400.00 20 kg 100.00 Azolla 0.00

(I.I)

7. Transplantation 35HL 1750.00 40 HL 2000.00 35 HL 1750.00

8. Interculture 5HL 250.00 7HL 350.00 5 HL 250.00

9. a) Ist top dressing Nil Urea Pongam Oilcake

12 kg 60.00 50 kg 200.00

MOP Cow urine

6kg 30.00 250 lts. 0.00 (I.I)

b) 2nd top dressing Nil Urea

10 kg 50.00 Cow urine

MOP 250 lts. 0.00 5kg 25.00 (I.I)

10. Pesticide application Nil 400.00 200.00

(lure appln.)

11. Irrigation (total) 250.00 250.00 250.00

12. Cutting of crop 15HL 750.00 18HL 900.00 15HL 750.00

13. Threshing 10HL 500.00 13HL 650.00 10HL 500.00

14. Miscellaneous expenses Nil 100.00 150.00

(pest management)

15. Total cost involved(in Rs) 4740.00 6855.00 5690.00

16. a.Yield of grains 12.7qntls. 20.2qntls 23.5qntls

@520/-per qntl @520/-qntl @520/-qntl

6604.00 10504.00 12220.00

b.Yield of straw 15.85qntls 25.07qntls 29.47qntls

@80/-=1268.00 @70/-=1755.00 @80/-=2358.00

17. Total yield(in terms of Rs.) 7,872.00 12,259.00 14578.00

18. Net benefit 3,132.00 5,404.00 8,888.00

19. Cost benefit Ratio (17/15) 1.66 1.788 2.562

Experiment -2: Kharif 2004-05:

Name and address of the farmer: Raghunath Barik, Bhimpur

Soil type: Coastal alluvial Crop type: Paddy HYV (Pooja) (recently introduced)

Experimental unit area: 1 Acre Source of seed: Farmer’s own saved seed (0S)

SL No.. Activities associated Control Rs Chemical Rs. Organic Rs

1. Seed cost OS 0.00 OS 0.00 OS 0.00

2. Seed bed preparation 2HL 100.00 2HL 100.00 2HL 100.00

1BL 80.00 1BL 80.00 1BL 80.00

3. Ist cultivation Tractor Tractor Tractor

2hrs 600.00 2hrs. 600.00 2hrs. 600.00

4. Farm yard Manure Not applied Not applied 2 tonnes (II) 0.00

5. Puddling 6HL 300.00 6HL 300.00 6HL 300.00

2BL 160.00 2BL 160.00 2BL 160.00

6. Basal application NIL Gromor Pongam oil cake

70 kg 700.00 1.5q 600.00

MOP Sesbania

20kg 100.00 10kg 110.00

B.F 500gm. 100.00

V.C. 5 qntls.

(I.I) 0.00

7. Transplantation 35HL 1750.00 40HL 20000.00 35HL 1750.00

8. Interculture 8HL 400.00 10HL 500.00 8HL 400.00

9. Ist Top dressing Nil Urea Bacterial fertiliser

12kg 60.00 250 gm 50.00

MOP Compost 2.5qntls.

6kg 30.00 (1.1) 0.00

10. 2nd top dressing Nil Urea Bacterial fertilizers

10kg 50.00 250 gm 50.00

MOP Compost 2.5qntls.

5kg 25.00 (1.1) 0.00

11. Pesticide application Nil Total 400.00 (1.1) 0.00

12. Crop cutting 15HL 750.00 18HL 900.00 15HL 750.00

13. Threshing 10HL 500.00 13HL 650.00 10HL 500.00

14. Miscellaneous Nil 100.00 150.00

15. Total cost involved (in Rs.) 4,640.00 6,755.00 5,700.00

16. a. Yield of grain 16.50qntl. 8,580.00 21.9qntl. 11,388.00 22.10qntl. 11,492/-

b. Yield of straw 22.10qntl 1,768.00 27.5qntl 1,925.00 29.4qntl 2,352/-

c. Total yield(in Rs.) 10,348.00 13,313.00 13,844/-

17. Net benefit 5,708.00 6,558.00 8,144/-

18. Cost benefit ratio (16c/15) 2.23 1.971 2.429

Soil fertility condition of the above crop at different stages.

Plot N (Kg/ha) P (Kg/ha) K(Kg/ha)

Subiah and Asija, 1956 Olsen’s method Ammonium Acetate method (alkaline potassium permanganate)

Initial 45DAT After Initial 45DAT After Initial 45DAT After

harvest harvest harvest

Control 511.9 499.4 426.49 50.00 44.6 15.2 312.0 300.8 200.25

Chemical 511.9 561.2 520.57 50.00 52.2 26.16 312.0 346.6 241.9

Organic 511.9 560.7 564.4 50.00 43.7 18.24 312.0 336.8 251.32

Experiment. 3. Kharif 2004-05

Name and address of the farmer: Sri Pitamber Jena,

At- Mangalpur, P.O.- Chengua- Mangalpur, Via- Bhimda, Dist; Mayurbhanj (Orissa)

Soil type : Sandy loam

Crop type : Paddy (HYV) Kasturi

Source of seed : Purchased from other farmer (PI)

(7.5 kg @ 5/- per kg= Rs. 37.50p)

Known yield potential of the variety (Kasturi) ± 20 quintals per acre (chemical)

Plot size : 30 decimals (100 decimals = 1 Acre)

Ingredients applied:

1. Sesbania (Dhanicha) seed @ 12 kg/acre = 3kg 600gm @ Rs. 11/- 1 kg = Rs. 39.60p)

2. Pongam oil cake @ 150kg/acre = 45 kg @ Rs. 4/-kg = Rs. 180.00

3. Cow urine soaked cowshed soil @ 4 quintals / acre= 1.2 quintals (Internal input)

4. Fresh cow urine @ 7-8 liters twice in a week for 6 weeks (internal input)

5. Home made heap compost – 2 cartloads (I I)

MATERIAL METHOD

Sesbania seeds were sown in the soil after the first ploughing and allowed to grow up to preflowering stage where after the field was ploughed and the plants were incorporated into the soil together with pongam oil cake, cow urine soaked cowshed soil and home made compost. The farm land top soil was thus converted into a paste of soil, sesbania plants, pongam oil cake, urine soaked cow shed soil, home made compost and stagnated water (just enough to create a muddy condition). It was allowed to stand overnight. The field was then transplanted with the paddy seedlings two days after. Thereafter, the field was periodically weeded and fresh cow urine applied at regular intervals to add more potash* to the soil.

[*The authors found out that fresh cow urine is a rich source of available potash to the plants and help in better fruiting.]

OBSERVATION:

1. Soil samples were collected at different stages for study of soil fertility conditions and the NPK values were ascertained.

Study of sample N(Kg/ha) P(Kg/ha) K(K/ha)

Initial 283.7 42.6 168.3

45 DAT 458.2 45.8 273.6

75 DAT 462.1 39.9 260.1

After harvest 393.6 35.2 254.7

2. Yeild of grains at harvest: 8.5 quintals (@ 28.33 quintals/acre –or- 70 quintals/hectare)

3. Yeild of straw at harvest : 9.9 quintals (@ 32.9 quintals / acre)

Cost Benefit Index :

1. Total expenditure incurred: Rs. 1317.10

A. Ingredients: (purchased input)

i. Cost of paddy seeds : Rs 37.50

ii. Cost of sesbania seeds : Rs. 39.60

iii. Cost of pongam oil cake : Rs. 180.00

B. Labour:

i. Seed bed preparation 1 HL : Rs. 50.00

ii. Ist cultivation 1 BL : Rs. 80.00

iii. Puddling I BL : Rs 80.00

iv. Transplantation 10 HL : Rs. 500.00

v. Interculture 1HL : Rs. 50.00

vi. Crop cutting 4 HL : Rs. 200.00

vii. Threshing 2HL : Rs. 100.00

2. Total sale proceeds of yield:

i.Value of grain,

8.5 quintals@ 600/- per quintal = : Rs. 5100.00

ii Value of straw,

9.9 quintals@ 80/-per quintals = : Rs. 792.00

———————

TOTAL Rs. 5892.00

3. Cost benefit ratio (2/1) = 4.47

Abbreviations used :

HL = Human labour, BL =Bullock Labour, MOP = Muriate of potash, N= Nitrogen (total), P= Phosphorus (available), K= Potash(available),II= Internal input, PI=– Purchased input, B.F.= Bacterial Feriliser, V.C.= VermiCompost.

x1 – Principal Investigator, UGC MRP Organic Farming, F.M. (Auto) College, Balasore (Orissa)756001

x2- Project Associate, UGC MRP Organic Farming, F.M.(Auto) College, Balasore(Orissa) 756001

x3- Research Associates, PPBSA- Navdanya, Ranipatna, Balasore(Orissa) 756001.

x4- Co-investigator, UGC MRP Organic Farming, F.M.(Auto) College, Balasore(Orissa) 756001

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

The authors are indebted to the University Grants Commission, Bahadur shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi-2, and the Navdanya Trust, A/60 hauz Khas, New Delhi-16 for the financial assistances received from them to undertake the ex- situ field studies and laboratory assessments.

References:

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Borlaug,N. 1994 agricultural research for sustainable development. Testimony before U.S. House of Representatives Committee on agriculture, 1994

Cacek, Terry. 1984. Organic Farming “the other conservation farming system. Journal of Soil and Water Conservation ; 39:357-360

Dahama, A.K. 1998 Agro’Annual Review of Crop Ecology, Vol. 1

Dindal 1990 Soil Biology Guide. John Wiley and Sons. New York, N.Y.

Eberle,P and D. Holland 1979 comparing organic and conventional grain farms in Washington

Fliessbach,A.,Eyhorn, F., Mader,P., Rentsch, D.and Hany,R. 2001 DOK long term farming system trial; microbial biomass, activity and diversity …… Sustainable management of organic matter, London, CABI

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CAB International, Wallingford

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Dr.Ashok Kumar Panigrahi

Cooking – Never Dunk Very Hot Pans in Cold Water

Perhaps the only thing that we don’t want to do after cooking the food is cleaning the cooking utensils. There are some of the cooking utensils which are made from aluminum or steel which are difficult to be cleaned. The tips below will make you feel comfortable when it’s time for you to clean the utensils.

COOKING UTENSILS of various materials differ in the care they require but have a few traits in common. Here are some suggestions applicable to all.
For more details go to: www.breakfasts-recipes.com If food is badly stuck on a pot or pan, or has been scorched or burned in the bottom, put hot water in the pan and boil it for a few minutes. The food will be softened and can then be removed easily. Wooden spoons are good for stirring foods while they are cooking because they minimize the chance of scratches and dents. And never dunk very hot pans in cold water; such treatment is disastrous to some kinds and scarcely helpful to any. Plastic sponges are good “scrapers” and harmless to all cooking utensils. In washing pots and pans mild detergents are effective. They deal more competently with kitchen grease than soap and are kinder to your hands than heavy duty detergents. Now for specific materials.

NEW ALUMINUM WARE remains bright and shining for a long time with ordinary washing and rinsing. If the finish becomes dark or dull, rub it up with a soaped steel wool pad. For best results rub in one direction, using straight even strokes rather than a circular motion. After this treatment aluminum emerges from a hot rinse bright and clean.

Spinach, potatoes, and other alkaline foods tend to darken aluminum and so do strong soaps and detergents. Acid foods like apples and tomatoes brighten it. Neither reaction affects the food in any way. However, food should not be stored in an aluminum pan because chemicals in the foods sometimes cause pit marks. There is no danger of food poisoning involved, but the marks make the utensil unattractive in appearance and difficult to clean. Never use metal sponges or scouring powders on aluminum; they are too harsh for it.

STAINLESS STEEL needs only hot suds; it never rusts and is damaged only by long contact with foods containing salts and acids.
For help visit: www.chef-123.com Pit marks, when they occur, are practically impossible to scour off, but you can try steel wool and a scouring powder.

BLUISH GRAY HEAT MARKS sometimes appear on the sides of stainless steel vessels. If they are light they can be removed with copper polish or scouring powder on a cloth. (Keep the flame low, if you use a gas range, to avoid heat marks on stainless steel.) Same, made by the Revere Company, cleans effectively both steel and copper and is made especially for their copper clad stainless steel vessels. Other copper polishes (Twinkle, Copper-Brite) perform a similar job. Follow the directions on the containers of these products.

GLASS AND ENAMELWARE cooking utensils share a number of traits, since enamelware consists of glass over steel. You can avoid scorching food in them by applying heat cautiously at the outset. Glass heats quickly but the heat is spread unevenly. Since glass is sensitive to sudden temperature changes are careful not to put hot glass or enamelware into cool water or to place it on a cold surface.

GLASS COOKING VESSELS CAN BE CLEANED with any material you select and no chemical found in food damages them. For burned-on food and hard-to-clean spatters use a plastic sponge or steel wool. Steel wool cuts more sharply. You can also use scouring powder, or if food has burned on, let them soak in water and baking soda.

For the food which is burned at the bottom of the pan, and difficult for you to wash, put hot water in the pan and boiled for few minutes, the pan will be easily cleaned. The aluminum ware can be cleaned using soaped steel wool pad.

samir
http://www.articlesbase.com/recipes-articles/cooking-never-dunk-very-hot-pans-in-cold-water-746840.html

Trimedica Alkamax Ph Balancing Powder – 200 gram

Trimedica Alkamax Ph Balancing Powder - 200 gram

Low Low Internet Price!AlkaMax? is a patent pending, one-of-a-kind all natural antacid and alkaline booster that can put an end to heartburn, indigestion, and excess acid in the body. Unlike chemically-saturated over the counter products that only mask the underlying problems of excess acid, AlkaMax? penetrates the source of acid build up and promotes long lasting alkaline balance throughout the entire body.Peak performance athletes looking to achieve their maximum potential are often frustrated by the limitations caused by muscle burn and soreness due to lactic acid buildup, but now they can shorten their recovery time with daily use of AlkaMax?. The powerful nutrients in AlkaMax? actually inhibit the buildup of lactic acid!By working on a cellular level, AlkaMax? supplements the body?s alkaline buffering system with essential nutrients that help neutralize the damaging effects of excess acidity while enhancing energy, endurance, vitality and overall immune system health. AlkaMax? is available in capsules, powder, or mini lozenges.Suggested Use: Mix one teaspoon in water one to two times daily or as directed by your health practitioner.Warning: This product contains potassium which may interfere with certain types of heart medications and diuretics. Those individuals using such medications should use this product only under the supervision of a medical professional.Ingredients:Supplement Facts Serving Size 1 Teaspoon Servings Per Container Appox. 40 Amount Per Capsule %DV? Proprietary blend 4150 mg ** Glycine Citric Acid Potassium Bicarbonate Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) (root)? Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. ** Daily value not established.

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Cooking – Never Dunk Very Hot Pans in Cold Water

Perhaps the only thing that we don’t want to do after cooking the food is cleaning the cooking utensils. There are some of the cooking utensils which are made from aluminum or steel which are difficult to be cleaned. The tips below will make you feel comfortable when it’s time for you to clean the utensils.

COOKING UTENSILS of various materials differ in the care they require but have a few traits in common. Here are some suggestions applicable to all.
For more details go to: www.breakfasts-recipes.com If food is badly stuck on a pot or pan, or has been scorched or burned in the bottom, put hot water in the pan and boil it for a few minutes. The food will be softened and can then be removed easily. Wooden spoons are good for stirring foods while they are cooking because they minimize the chance of scratches and dents. And never dunk very hot pans in cold water; such treatment is disastrous to some kinds and scarcely helpful to any. Plastic sponges are good “scrapers” and harmless to all cooking utensils. In washing pots and pans mild detergents are effective. They deal more competently with kitchen grease than soap and are kinder to your hands than heavy duty detergents. Now for specific materials.

NEW ALUMINUM WARE remains bright and shining for a long time with ordinary washing and rinsing. If the finish becomes dark or dull, rub it up with a soaped steel wool pad. For best results rub in one direction, using straight even strokes rather than a circular motion. After this treatment aluminum emerges from a hot rinse bright and clean.

Spinach, potatoes, and other alkaline foods tend to darken aluminum and so do strong soaps and detergents. Acid foods like apples and tomatoes brighten it. Neither reaction affects the food in any way. However, food should not be stored in an aluminum pan because chemicals in the foods sometimes cause pit marks. There is no danger of food poisoning involved, but the marks make the utensil unattractive in appearance and difficult to clean. Never use metal sponges or scouring powders on aluminum; they are too harsh for it.

STAINLESS STEEL needs only hot suds; it never rusts and is damaged only by long contact with foods containing salts and acids.
For help visit: www.chef-123.com Pit marks, when they occur, are practically impossible to scour off, but you can try steel wool and a scouring powder.

BLUISH GRAY HEAT MARKS sometimes appear on the sides of stainless steel vessels. If they are light they can be removed with copper polish or scouring powder on a cloth. (Keep the flame low, if you use a gas range, to avoid heat marks on stainless steel.) Same, made by the Revere Company, cleans effectively both steel and copper and is made especially for their copper clad stainless steel vessels. Other copper polishes (Twinkle, Copper-Brite) perform a similar job. Follow the directions on the containers of these products.

GLASS AND ENAMELWARE cooking utensils share a number of traits, since enamelware consists of glass over steel. You can avoid scorching food in them by applying heat cautiously at the outset. Glass heats quickly but the heat is spread unevenly. Since glass is sensitive to sudden temperature changes are careful not to put hot glass or enamelware into cool water or to place it on a cold surface.

GLASS COOKING VESSELS CAN BE CLEANED with any material you select and no chemical found in food damages them. For burned-on food and hard-to-clean spatters use a plastic sponge or steel wool. Steel wool cuts more sharply. You can also use scouring powder, or if food has burned on, let them soak in water and baking soda.

For the food which is burned at the bottom of the pan, and difficult for you to wash, put hot water in the pan and boiled for few minutes, the pan will be easily cleaned. The aluminum ware can be cleaned using soaped steel wool pad.

samir
http://www.articlesbase.com/recipes-articles/cooking-never-dunk-very-hot-pans-in-cold-water-746840.html

Cooking – Never Dunk Very Hot Pans in Cold Water

Perhaps the only thing that we don’t want to do after cooking the food is cleaning the cooking utensils. There are some of the cooking utensils which are made from aluminum or steel which are difficult to be cleaned. The tips below will make you feel comfortable when it’s time for you to clean the utensils.

COOKING UTENSILS of various materials differ in the care they require but have a few traits in common. Here are some suggestions applicable to all.
For more details go to: www.breakfasts-recipes.com If food is badly stuck on a pot or pan, or has been scorched or burned in the bottom, put hot water in the pan and boil it for a few minutes. The food will be softened and can then be removed easily. Wooden spoons are good for stirring foods while they are cooking because they minimize the chance of scratches and dents. And never dunk very hot pans in cold water; such treatment is disastrous to some kinds and scarcely helpful to any. Plastic sponges are good “scrapers” and harmless to all cooking utensils. In washing pots and pans mild detergents are effective. They deal more competently with kitchen grease than soap and are kinder to your hands than heavy duty detergents. Now for specific materials.

NEW ALUMINUM WARE remains bright and shining for a long time with ordinary washing and rinsing. If the finish becomes dark or dull, rub it up with a soaped steel wool pad. For best results rub in one direction, using straight even strokes rather than a circular motion. After this treatment aluminum emerges from a hot rinse bright and clean.

Spinach, potatoes, and other alkaline foods tend to darken aluminum and so do strong soaps and detergents. Acid foods like apples and tomatoes brighten it. Neither reaction affects the food in any way. However, food should not be stored in an aluminum pan because chemicals in the foods sometimes cause pit marks. There is no danger of food poisoning involved, but the marks make the utensil unattractive in appearance and difficult to clean. Never use metal sponges or scouring powders on aluminum; they are too harsh for it.

STAINLESS STEEL needs only hot suds; it never rusts and is damaged only by long contact with foods containing salts and acids.
For help visit: www.chef-123.com Pit marks, when they occur, are practically impossible to scour off, but you can try steel wool and a scouring powder.

BLUISH GRAY HEAT MARKS sometimes appear on the sides of stainless steel vessels. If they are light they can be removed with copper polish or scouring powder on a cloth. (Keep the flame low, if you use a gas range, to avoid heat marks on stainless steel.) Same, made by the Revere Company, cleans effectively both steel and copper and is made especially for their copper clad stainless steel vessels. Other copper polishes (Twinkle, Copper-Brite) perform a similar job. Follow the directions on the containers of these products.

GLASS AND ENAMELWARE cooking utensils share a number of traits, since enamelware consists of glass over steel. You can avoid scorching food in them by applying heat cautiously at the outset. Glass heats quickly but the heat is spread unevenly. Since glass is sensitive to sudden temperature changes are careful not to put hot glass or enamelware into cool water or to place it on a cold surface.

GLASS COOKING VESSELS CAN BE CLEANED with any material you select and no chemical found in food damages them. For burned-on food and hard-to-clean spatters use a plastic sponge or steel wool. Steel wool cuts more sharply. You can also use scouring powder, or if food has burned on, let them soak in water and baking soda.

For the food which is burned at the bottom of the pan, and difficult for you to wash, put hot water in the pan and boiled for few minutes, the pan will be easily cleaned. The aluminum ware can be cleaned using soaped steel wool pad.

samir
http://www.articlesbase.com/recipes-articles/cooking-never-dunk-very-hot-pans-in-cold-water-746840.html

Cooking – Never Dunk Very Hot Pans in Cold Water

Perhaps the only thing that we don’t want to do after cooking the food is cleaning the cooking utensils. There are some of the cooking utensils which are made from aluminum or steel which are difficult to be cleaned. The tips below will make you feel comfortable when it’s time for you to clean the utensils.

COOKING UTENSILS of various materials differ in the care they require but have a few traits in common. Here are some suggestions applicable to all.
For more details go to: www.breakfasts-recipes.com If food is badly stuck on a pot or pan, or has been scorched or burned in the bottom, put hot water in the pan and boil it for a few minutes. The food will be softened and can then be removed easily. Wooden spoons are good for stirring foods while they are cooking because they minimize the chance of scratches and dents. And never dunk very hot pans in cold water; such treatment is disastrous to some kinds and scarcely helpful to any. Plastic sponges are good “scrapers” and harmless to all cooking utensils. In washing pots and pans mild detergents are effective. They deal more competently with kitchen grease than soap and are kinder to your hands than heavy duty detergents. Now for specific materials.

NEW ALUMINUM WARE remains bright and shining for a long time with ordinary washing and rinsing. If the finish becomes dark or dull, rub it up with a soaped steel wool pad. For best results rub in one direction, using straight even strokes rather than a circular motion. After this treatment aluminum emerges from a hot rinse bright and clean.

Spinach, potatoes, and other alkaline foods tend to darken aluminum and so do strong soaps and detergents. Acid foods like apples and tomatoes brighten it. Neither reaction affects the food in any way. However, food should not be stored in an aluminum pan because chemicals in the foods sometimes cause pit marks. There is no danger of food poisoning involved, but the marks make the utensil unattractive in appearance and difficult to clean. Never use metal sponges or scouring powders on aluminum; they are too harsh for it.

STAINLESS STEEL needs only hot suds; it never rusts and is damaged only by long contact with foods containing salts and acids.
For help visit: www.chef-123.com Pit marks, when they occur, are practically impossible to scour off, but you can try steel wool and a scouring powder.

BLUISH GRAY HEAT MARKS sometimes appear on the sides of stainless steel vessels. If they are light they can be removed with copper polish or scouring powder on a cloth. (Keep the flame low, if you use a gas range, to avoid heat marks on stainless steel.) Same, made by the Revere Company, cleans effectively both steel and copper and is made especially for their copper clad stainless steel vessels. Other copper polishes (Twinkle, Copper-Brite) perform a similar job. Follow the directions on the containers of these products.

GLASS AND ENAMELWARE cooking utensils share a number of traits, since enamelware consists of glass over steel. You can avoid scorching food in them by applying heat cautiously at the outset. Glass heats quickly but the heat is spread unevenly. Since glass is sensitive to sudden temperature changes are careful not to put hot glass or enamelware into cool water or to place it on a cold surface.

GLASS COOKING VESSELS CAN BE CLEANED with any material you select and no chemical found in food damages them. For burned-on food and hard-to-clean spatters use a plastic sponge or steel wool. Steel wool cuts more sharply. You can also use scouring powder, or if food has burned on, let them soak in water and baking soda.

For the food which is burned at the bottom of the pan, and difficult for you to wash, put hot water in the pan and boiled for few minutes, the pan will be easily cleaned. The aluminum ware can be cleaned using soaped steel wool pad.

samir
http://www.articlesbase.com/recipes-articles/cooking-never-dunk-very-hot-pans-in-cold-water-746840.html